How luxury shoes are made. Inside Seishou factory with craftsman Rocco

How luxury shoes are made. Inside Seishou factory with craftsman Rocco

Defined by the artisanal construction and high quality materials, each model in the Seishou line is crafted by expert workers who care for every detail. To know more about the techniques employed to create luxury footwear, we have interviewed craftsman Rocco, who is responsible for the construction of Seishou shoes inside the workshop.


How did your passion for shoes begin?

My curiosity towards shoe lasts, models and materials made me realize how fascinating the shoemaking process was to me. It has been 40 years since I began working as a craftsman and I can safely say that in this line of work each and every step is critical in order to achieve a high quality artisanal product.

What is your role inside the workshop?

I deal with the fastening process: once the upper has been stitched, my job is to get it ready to be glued onto the sole. This is followed by quality control and the finishing touches, after which the product is prepared for the shipping process.

What kind of different fastening processes are employed to create Seishou shoes?

Aside from the standard gluing process, some models also require specific types of stitching which are carried out with specialized machines: among these, for example, the Blake stitching and the box sole stitching, with which we make Maryland loafers and Emory sneakers for Seishou menswear.

Talking about Maryland, why was this particular stitching method chosen?

Blake stitching is often used for leather soles, as is the case for Maryland loafers, in order to guarantee better durability to the shoe compared to just using glue. It can be applied to different types of leather, as long as the sole is equipped with a “channel” along which the stitching is placed.

Another peculiar feature of their soles is the use of two different materials. Can you tell us more about their benefits?

The partial rubber coating of the leather soles provides more safety in terms of better grip. The leather sole, while very aesthetically refined, is often slippery and can lead to tripping. That is why Vibram rubber has been added to the sole: a premium material, thoroughly tested and very resistant, which means the soles will take longer to wear out.

And what about the box sole stitching employed for Emory sneakers?

It is called box sole stitching because the shoe is “boxed” into the sole, it is mostly used for sneakers, with rubber soles. This technique requires stitching the sides of the sole to the upper. Compared to just using glue, this method guarantees that the sole stays attached even after prolonged use.

Can you tell us something peculiar about the techniques adopted during the last steps of production?

One of the more interesting techniques is employed for the light brown variant of Hopkins boat shoes: the calfskin undergoes a specific coating process to achieve a sort of “burnt” effect that livens up the color. This gives the shoes the artisanal quality that characterizes them. The process requires the use of specific waxes, depending on the shade of color that you want to achieve.

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